If you have an etching question, email me, and I will attempt to answer it here, if I can't, or have no experience in it, I will post it under questions below. My answers are based upon personal experiences. There are many variables to consider when sand etching, I do not guarantee results, and assume that you take appropriate safety precautions when working with glass and sand blasting or acid.
I prefer to use your name, and city, for your questions, but will not include your email address.

I very seldom get material or equipment from specialty companies - it's too expensive! :-)

Most of the suppliers that I use are local ones - I don't get into too many glass blanks and the like (except for drinking glasses and mugs, but it still is cheaper to get these locally, rather than paying the shipping on a cheaper price from a distance). I get my abrasive from a local sand-blasting shop, pricing I think is quite reasonable: $8 for a 40 Kg (80 lb) bag of silica sand (any grit size from 3 to 00), $38 for 23 Kg (50 lb) of magnesium oxide (180 grit) or $60 for 23 Kg (50 lb) of aluminum oxide (220 grit). So, check locally first and see if the supplies that you need can be obtained.

For hand-cut resists, I use again, local stores - I find the Yellow pages very helpful :-) Tool wise, a number of years ago, I made my own blasting cabinet, and photo resist exposure machine; as far as parts for my etching equipment, all these can be obtained from auto supply shops (they are used for auto body work).

The only material that I do not get locally is photo resist from Photobrasive, although I am trying to find another product which will do the same thing, and not cost as much.

There is a list of some suppliers at the GlassLine Newsletter site, you might find it helpful.

If you can ask me some specific questions, I'll do my best to answer them. To answer a question like these would require a book more than an email. Many of my earlier Question and Answer updates have information and links on how to go about starting etching. Click on the earlier versions (1-6 above). I could suggest you start there, and then email me if you have specific questions again

The only suggestion that I could make for speeding up masking, would be to use self-adhesive vinyl (it has a backing sheet, which is removed, and the back of the vinyl is sticky; the rolls are 46cm wide and come in various lengths). It is sold in Canada as shelf or wall covering (also called contact sheet). Because of the high cost of the Photo resist, I only use a piece just large enough to cover the positive, and then protect the rest of the glass surface with either this vinyl, or tape paper on to it (but, don't shoot the abrasive on the paper when you are blasting!)

If you use the self adhesive vinyl, you may have to test the product that you get if you are going to use it for a resist itself. I use a Canadian made vinyl, and can use one layer of it for a resist. There is a Chinese vinyl available here, but it is quite a bit thinner, and I would have to use two layers to use as a resist. If all you are doing is using it for over-spray of the abrasive, a single layer would work fine though.

I only have a small mini system set up now as my living area is tiny, but the small container which holds my 220 aluminium oxide continues to clog up, even though it is not humid. There is a moisture reservoir on the unit, but it is inadequate.." "I am having trouble with my resist coming up while blasting, thus the project looks bad. Perhaps it is the moisture causing this also? I will keep watching for your updates, thank you."

Pricing: that is a difficult question to answer, as I don't know what you etch onto the glass. I usually figure out my total cost on a project, then figure how long it will take me, and charge accordingly. Some things that I have tried to etch, if I charged a decent hourly rate, nobody could afford them, but on the other hand, I figure my time and work is worth more than $1 or 2 an hour. So it sometimes is difficult to find the fine line between keeping the customer happy, and keeping yourself happy.

Re clogging: There is a problem with aggregate as fine as 220: even if it is perfectly dry, because it is so fine, it can create a hole in the aggregate just around the take up hose. I don't know how a mini system works (is it siphon or pressure?), but if it is siphon, and your blasting unit does not have enough suction, it will only pull the aggregate that readily falls into your take up hose. So, you may have to keep giving your reservoir a shake to knock down the Aluminium Oxide into this "hole".

What kind of resist are you using? What is the substrate that you are blasting on? How long do you leave the resist after gluing, before you etch it? Also, what air pressure are you using for blasting?

Also I am having lots of problems with clogging as it appears that the moisture trap isn't doing it's thing. I live in a very dry climate. Perhaps the moisture is causing the resist to lift???

Well! thanks again.

I haven't heard of the resist that you use. I am currently using the 75 micron PhotoBrasive resist (their thinnest), and found that if I leave the piece overnight before I etch it, the glue will hold much better. You might want to try this with a sample - unless of course the manufacturer, states not to leave it.

40 PSI should not be a problem - I've used up to 60 PSI with 220 Alum. Ox, and not had a problem, but as above, my resist IS slightly thicker.

Are you sure that it is moisture that is clogging the aggregate, and that it is not just clogging on itself? Also, remember that the moisture trap on the blast unit will only remove the moisture from the compressed air, not the oxide, so make sure that the oxide is dry. I live in a rather humid area, and have not had any problem with moisture clogging my aggregate.

I would think that the humidity would have to be very great to have a lifting effect on the resist - and you say you live in a dry area. Can you see that the oxide is damp or wet, as you are etching? You might also try and see if you can obtain an aftermarket air line filter for your air line if this happens to be the problem.

Why, when my mirror is finished, are there sometimes spots of various sizes on the etching? Is this due to defects, invisible with the eye, in the mirror? Do I cause it when I remove the surplus acid with a scraper before washing it with water? Since I have used a brush to apply my product, I find that there are less of these undesirable spots. I re-use my acid before to throw it out because it is so expensive.

If I have understood the English part, is it possible to put some color on the etching? What type of paint is it necessary to use? What is the technique to be followed? Which tools should one to be using? Where can one find these products?

Can you provide me some addresses where I can get the products which I need in Canada? I know that Armor Etch Products is in the USA but I find obtaining it difficult because of the rate of American exchange, of the expenses of the transport charges and especially the language...

I have much difficulty with fixing prices for my pieces. Somebody who works in cabinet work said to me that they charge the price of the material x2 for his time. For example: material: $30 x2, total price $60. Which is a good way?"

I was very disappointed with the results that I got from the acid cream, that is why I started using the sand blasting. The spots on the mirror, could be from defects in the glass, I also had this problem using the acid. If I can remember, the acid is supposed to be kept moving as it is working.

There are many different products that you can use to color the etch. Since you are not removing the silver from the mirror, it will be more difficult to color it. I have used permanent markers on the face of mirrors, with good results (but you have to be careful not to overlap too much). If you use a paint, you will have to remove any that goes on the glass.

Armor Etch is available from Lee Valley Tools in Ottawa (http://www.leevalley.com/ Telephone: 1-800-267-8761) , and The Glass Place in Pointe-Claire (http://www.glassplace.com/ Telephone: 1-800-363-7855).

Pricing is difficult, see above (E. Murphy).

If anyone knows of Darryl Spilchin, send me an email with the particulars, and I'll let K. Braul know, and post it next update.